Next, check the measurements you got earlier and adjust if necessary.    Now for the upper bars, try to keep them as long as possible to keep the pinion angle change to a minimum. Keep your worst pinion angle at the point where the truck will be at it's lowest. This will give you a pretty good angle at any of your driving heights. At ride height, the pinion angle should be between 1 - 4 degrees max, but never zero. Take a measurement to determine the new rear crossmember location and tack it in place. Measure your rearend side to side again to be sure you are still ok and put the upper bars into place and tack them.
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  If you're satisfied with everything, put some really good tacks on every weld location and move the rearend through it's entire range of travel. Check for any binding and also the pinion angle. If any adjustments are needed, do them now and double check everything BEFORE you completely weld it up. Remove the bars and weld all the mounts, then add a coat of paint. When everything has cooled, reinstall the bars and the bags. Lastly, put the bed back on and trim the floor if necessary.  The truck we used is a 1993 toyota reg-cab owned by brian dunn of memphis tennessee. We used a pete & jakes tri-angulated 4-link - the truck rolls 18" giovanna wheels and has 4-wheel bags w/ MIC fast manual valves. we only did the 4-link - not the bag set-up. tech work done by eric arrington & matt long @ KUSTOMWERKS - union city tn. kstmwrks@usit.net
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